The first show I attended on Saturday was Spijkers en Spijkers, which I already followed last year for the Spring / Summer 2012 collection. (see this other post for background information about the designers)
This time, instead of taking place at Il Bottaccio, the show was organised
in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout's main room.
Edie Bouvier Beale (American socialite, fashion model and cabaret performer), a “bird of paradise” according to Dutch people’s expression to describe eccentricity, was the main inspiration behind this collection.
Spijkers en Spijkers seem to be following a particular scheme: each collection you can find back a specific geometric shape used for most of the clothes (last year the star shape was used for the S/S collection, and this year it is a kind of round scale shape which can be found on most dresses and skirts), as well as a few specific colours combined (last year pale pink, yellow and purple, this year a trendy orange, dark purple and dark yellow), with the black colour usually here as a base.
Another characteristic of the designers is that they work mainly on silk, using various versions of this material: silk dupion, silk satin samudra, silk-wool blends and printed silk-wool maple. Other fabrics used include striped wool jersey crepe and crepe de chine. On some pieces ostrich and bird feathers were added to recall the eccentric influence of this collection.
Some of the other pieces created were very classy dark suits with trousers reflecting the willingness of the designers to create clothes for active and modern women who rewrite the rules of their status.
The whole show was accompanied by a cabaret style cover song of Peggy Lee’s “Is that all there is”,
which gave the fashion show's atmosphere the eccentric touch needed.
I will write next about Alice Lee, Bernard Chandran, Ashley Isham
and other designers of the LFW A/W 2012
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